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Hair Color 

There are 3 processes that can be used to alter hair color, all of which can be done alone or used to support each other for a desired look. Before we talk about changing hair color let’s first understand natural hair color. Hair is made of 3 distinct layers; the outer layer, cuticle is nearly transparent like glass. Under the cuticle is the cortex which is a fibrous (like cotton) and opaque. The cortex is also where your natural hair color is, if your hair is red then the cortex is red, black the cortex is black, blond then blond cortex. The outer layer, cuticle, is always clear and you see the cortex (hair color) through it. Gray hair is a good example; hair turns gray because it no longer produces a cortex, only cuticle (clear) and medulla (white).

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Direct Dyes

Direct Dyes: Directly stain the cuticle, making the cortex difficult to see. The results of a direct dye are dependent on underlying color of the cortex. For example if the cortex is Black (naturally or by previous color service) and you put a medium red or any direct dye lighter then black, you will not see a change in color. In the sun or bright light you may see a slight reflection of red, but that’s all.

  • Temporary: stains outside of the cuticle will washout after 1 or 2 shampoos*.
  • Semi-permanents: Will stain outside and inside (stains deeper into the cuticle) and last 12 to 28 shampoos*.
  • Direct Dyes are the safest color: because they usually don’t have strong chemicals such as ammonia
  • Henna is one of the oldest forms of hair coloring, dating back to ancient Egypt. 

*On relaxed, permed or chemically treated hair, direct dyes may become more permanent because cuticle is opened and cortex is exposed.


Oxidative Dyes

Oxidative Dyes:  unlike direct dye oxidative dyes permanently change the hair color by:

  1. Opening the cuticle
  2. Removing natural pigment (natural color)
  3. Planting new desired color into the cortex.
  4. Once the new color molecules are in the hair, they become trapped. Some fading may occur over time, especial with reds.
  • Demi-permanents are a mix between oxidative and direct dyes
  • Permanents are permanent; the only way to remove it is by a chemical process color remover or De-Colorizing. Either way the hair will not return to its natural color.
  •  Oxidative color usually contains ammonia or ammonia-like ingredients, peroxide and color molecules.

 

 
 
 
De-coloring or Bleaching

De-Coloring or bleaching: There 10 natural hair color levels ranging from 1(black) to 10 lightest blonde, however, there are 12 lifting levels when changing your natural color (1(black) to 12 (pale yellow)). Sometimes bleach is used to lift hair quickly, remove a previous oxidative or direct dye, use hair’s underlying pigment or lighten hair more than 5 levels. Hair usually always lifts warm for example; if hair that is a level 1 (black) is bleached up 5 levels to a level 6 the hair will be red orange, if you start at natural level 4 (medium brown) and bleach up 5 levels to a level 9 the hair will be orange yellow. There is really no way to bleach hair to white and if you did, it will probably turn to mush and be severely damaged. To change bleached hair form a warm tone to a cooler or neutral tone you have to apply a “toner” that will alter the visible remaining pigment.

  • Toner is a weak oxidative or direct dye that adds tone to a color by neutralizing, enhancing or adding to underlying or artificial pigment. For example: if you want platinum blonde, you must bleach the hair to level 12 (pale yellow) violet will cancel out the yellow so you will apply a violet toner. And if your desired color is a level 6 reddish brown starting from black, you can lift hair to a level 6, using bleach, the underlying pigment will be red then tone with a 6 neutral.
  • Bleach can be very damaging, see a professional or use caution.
  • Some color lines have a toner in the bleach.